rolf wheel stressor

cool wheel building tool. stress relieves the spokes during the build

cable head stuck in sti shifter

digging out the cable head can always be fun when they break inside the shifter. sometimes i use a pick to force the shifter gear to the highest gear position while clicking the shifter. a set of tweezers also help to pull the head and keep it seated while you click the shifter.

park freewheel wrench broke

my tools at work

impact gun

impact wrench is great tool and knuckle saver. i use them to blast off chainring bolts and rotor bolts mostly. pedals too. i would get one with and adjustable power knob or regulator to limit the power. i have a little ingersoll rand butterfly impact that i use on rotor bolts and chainring bolts. got a bigger pistol grip one for pedals

cable cutters

these knipex cable cutters are hot. love em. sharp tips to nip the pig tail off of brake housing. crimpers work for ferules and end caps

disc brake pad spreader

this is made from a mavic hub adjustment tool/tire lever. chop the tire lever portion off and sharpen it with a file. nice little tool to push the pads apart. macro button was not cooperating

praise to the pedro's bb socket holder

one of the few pedro's tools that i like. when you need to lay down the power this is the tool you need to keep the bb tool from slipping. easy to make at home but you will need to source a few things. i like the pedros version because it works on isis and octalink bbs.  a m8x1 fully threaded bolt and nut. m8x1 is not too common but you should be able to get it at a industrial supply place. m8x1.25 is common at most hardware stores so watch out

wrench flats for your hollowtech tool

wrench flats for superior leverage

cup and cone bb adjustment without taking the crank off

quick way to tighten most fixed bb cups without taking off the crank is to use a 36mm headset wrench. it fits most of the time to check the tightness of the fixed cup. i also grind down my pin spanners to sneak it past the left arm. new style ones that use a 20 tooth spline are a bit harder to do without taking the arms off. drive arm must come off but the non drive side i can usually wedge a screwdriver to turn the cup

stuck or corroded threadless fork

many will want to just drive the steerer tube straight down but this is wrong or much harder than attacking it differently. if you try to drive it straight down you are breaking the bond of everything at once. there is lots of surface area. driving it down also wedges the split wedge tighter and grips the tube. very hard to do. knock off 1 piece at a time. spin each spacer to break the bond. sometimes i use some rubber around the pliers but if its stuck good go for the teeth. after one is spun drive it up with a screw driver or putty knife. now sand the corrosion off the tube. repeat until you win

disc brake squeal

you can get the squeal out of the rotor by cleaning and sanding. you can't get the squeel out of pads by sanding, or lighting them on fire, fun but doesn't work. replace the pads. also test ride the bike to test the braking performance. can you skid the rear tire? can you lift the rear end when you apply the front brake? if the power is low i would question the condition of the pads if the lever feels ok.

nipple shaker or tray

made this for wheel builds. toss nipples in, shake. now all your nipples are lined up. i use a straight pick to stab the nipples and start em on the spoke.

campagnolo chainring bolts

campy chain ring bolts are tough to remove once they are corroded. the t30 side of the bolt has a lot of surface area for corrosion. the best way i have found to remove these is the clamp a t30 torx in the vise and use an impact screwdriver. set the crank on the t30 wrench and use the impact screwdriver with the biggest flat bit you got. should free it up. i have used an impact gun on the t30 side but it can strip out. the t30 on the crank arm gets the impact gun or normal wrench. i use a pick to pick out the anti tampering plug

crank puller

tired of cranking hard on the crank puller? crank seems seized on? use the crank puller as usual, when you build up a lot of pressure and tension give the crank puller a good hit with the hammer. should loosen the crank right up

drywall screw

another trick for pulling out jammed ferules in shimano road levers. brake ferules inside a shimano road lever is a no no. if one is stuck then grab a drywall screw to pull it out.

screw starter for starting nipples

use a screw holding screwdriver to start nipples in double wall or deep rims. ullman d-2 or kd 2282 are good choices with a magnet on the other end for fishing cables. ebay or amazon are good places to get them. under 10 bucks. i also use the straight pick to start nipples.

cleaning out bottom bracket threads

head to the plumbing section at the hardware store and grab a wire brush for cleaning out 1 inch copper pipe. buy the cheap one with the twisted wire handle. chop the handle off and chuck it in your drill. use this to clean out bottom brackets. run the brush through then wrap a towel or rag around and give it another spin. squeaky clean now

Fork/Stem transfer tool

copied this from efficient velo tools. when you need to do some fork work just pop the top cap off and slam this tool on top of the steerer. holds the stem and spacers in place. no more dangling bars and kinked housing. made from an old stem and a steerer tube cutoff piece. end of the steerer tube is tapered for easy insertion.

self extracting cranks

some self extracting crank caps are left hand threaded and this prevent the cap from coming off when pulling the crank. for normal right hand caps give it a shot of lube under the cap before you pull the crank. this lubes it to fight the friction between the bolt and cap. this helps to prevent the cap from coming off