shimano hollowtech preload cap tool

 

Air Chuck setup

chris king headset service

lift the snap ring

pull the seal

clean with solvent

grease it up

this can be done with the cups in the bike but it is easier off the bike

Fork seal driver

cut the dust wiper and spring off

cut the inside oil seal

place seal driver on new seal and bang it in the lowers

wheel building tools

nipple box and nipple starter in action. straight pick to grab nipples and insert into rim one handed. spin the pick a few times and the nipple will catch and thread on.

rim wrench

copy of the morningstar rim rench. made with a junky 8in adjustable that i picked up on the side of the road during one of my commutes. strong enough for this purpose and you wont destroy the good stuff. tools used were a hacksaw, dremel and bench grinder

chuck wedges for stripped crank extractor threads

credit goes to Francis(fbinny) of chain-l and kingsbridge tools. just posting to show the correct size. these are size number 2. slot is about 5/8. tap the 2 wedges behind the crank arm and off they come

stripped crank puller threads

when the puller threads are stripped on a crank i usually use a pickle fork. the one sized for tie rods is the right size. i also have a set of jacobs chuck wedges. size number 2 has a 9/16 slot that fits. the wedges don't really damage the crank. the pickle fork is faster and does some damage

sock it out screw extractor

these things work awesome. they are basically a tapered hex key. removes stripped out hex screws. get some. http://www.sockitout.com/

rolf wheel stressor

cool wheel building tool. stress relieves the spokes during the build

cable head stuck in sti shifter

digging out the cable head can always be fun when they break inside the shifter. sometimes i use a pick to force the shifter gear to the highest gear position while clicking the shifter. a set of tweezers also help to pull the head and keep it seated while you click the shifter.

park freewheel wrench broke

my tools at work

impact gun

impact wrench is great tool and knuckle saver. i use them to blast off chainring bolts and rotor bolts mostly. pedals too. i would get one with and adjustable power knob or regulator to limit the power. i have a little ingersoll rand butterfly impact that i use on rotor bolts and chainring bolts. got a bigger pistol grip one for pedals

cable cutters

these knipex cable cutters are hot. love em. sharp tips to nip the pig tail off of brake housing. crimpers work for ferules and end caps

disc brake pad spreader

this is made from a mavic hub adjustment tool/tire lever. chop the tire lever portion off and sharpen it with a file. nice little tool to push the pads apart. macro button was not cooperating

praise to the pedro's bb socket holder

one of the few pedro's tools that i like. when you need to lay down the power this is the tool you need to keep the bb tool from slipping. easy to make at home but you will need to source a few things. i like the pedros version because it works on isis and octalink bbs.  a m8x1 fully threaded bolt and nut. m8x1 is not too common but you should be able to get it at a industrial supply place. m8x1.25 is common at most hardware stores so watch out

wrench flats for your hollowtech tool

wrench flats for superior leverage

cup and cone bb adjustment without taking the crank off

quick way to tighten most fixed bb cups without taking off the crank is to use a 36mm headset wrench. it fits most of the time to check the tightness of the fixed cup. i also grind down my pin spanners to sneak it past the left arm. new style ones that use a 20 tooth spline are a bit harder to do without taking the arms off. drive arm must come off but the non drive side i can usually wedge a screwdriver to turn the cup

stuck or corroded threadless fork

many will want to just drive the steerer tube straight down but this is wrong or much harder than attacking it differently. if you try to drive it straight down you are breaking the bond of everything at once. there is lots of surface area. driving it down also wedges the split wedge tighter and grips the tube. very hard to do. knock off 1 piece at a time. spin each spacer to break the bond. sometimes i use some rubber around the pliers but if its stuck good go for the teeth. after one is spun drive it up with a screw driver or putty knife. now sand the corrosion off the tube. repeat until you win